Half crimp position. This grip offers a balance of strength and flexibili...
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Half crimp position. This grip offers a balance of strength and flexibility, crucial for handling holds that are neither too large nor too small. According to a study that looked at “ biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position,” three times the force applied at the fingertip during a crimp grip position compared to a sloper handhold during a warmup, making you more likely to Specificity 2. This position maximizes tendon tension and internal strain—offering a mechanical advantage but also increasing the risk of overload. The four-fingers open-hand position is an excellent compromise between efficiency and power. Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. I'm wondering whether this is a correct half position and it's a case of the length of my index finger. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) Moved Permanently The document has moved here. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) Feb 2, 2025 · This is also why full crimp injuries are more common than half crimp injuries. If these joints on your fingers are bent outwards, you are not crimping, but using an open hand The Three-Finger Drag. Full crimp The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. Unsubscribe at any time. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. As you gain experience, you can expand to four or five positions per session. Four-fingers Half-crimp. Your thumb rests in a natural position on the side of your index finger. The fingers are bent at the first joint, creating a 90-degree angle, with the thumb pressing on the index finger for additional support. The middle finger, due to its additional length, tends to be slightly more articulated than the pointer and the ring. Aug 6, 2025 · They found consistent patterns: Full Crimp: Climbers showed 28°–37° of wrist extension, the greatest among all grip types. This is the most popular hand position. Crimp Climbing Crimp climbing, also known as “crimping” can be edge handholds large enough for multiple fingers tips or just one or two fingertips. Four finger half crimp 2. Jul 13, 2021 · Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. Is this a better half crimp and I just need to train it? Sep 14, 2016 · Master the Hang Board Primary Position with 8 rounds of crimp, open-hand, half-crimp hangs on the smallest ledge. When to Use Half crimp vs. Version 1: Pinky Extended. The position is defined extended pointer and pinky fingers while the middle two fingers rest in the half-crimped position. Feb 19, 2026 · Half crimp and open hand as your core, with a third position (pockets, full crimp, or slopers) rotated in based on your goals. Half Crimp: Wrist extension averaged 14°–17°. We won't send you spam. Oct 15, 2021 · What Is a Half Crimp? A half crimp is a type of grip climbers use in the sports of bouldering and rock climbing. On the bottom photo I'm forcing my index finger to 90 but my ring and middle feel like they're going into an hyper extended PIP position and closer to a full crimp. The biggest reason for this is that it is the hand position that many climbers believe to be the safest for training. Three finger drag 3. Learn safe techniques that reduce injury risk by 220% while building maximum finger strength for harder routes. Mar 2, 2026 · Master the three types of crimp grips for climbing. Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. . May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. This hand position is defined by the thumb meeting the pointer finger at the thumb’s most extended point of articulation. Sep 14, 2016 · Master the Hang Board Primary Position with 8 rounds of crimp, open-hand, half-crimp hangs on the smallest ledge. This is the grip position defined by the extension of the pointer, middle and ring fingers. Four-fingers Open-hand. Four-fingers Full-crimp. May 10, 2022 · The half-crimp can be used for the vast majority of edges, whether flat, sloping or in-cut, and it is also used when pinching. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. 8–11 minute intense grip training. The easiest way to tell if you are using a crimp grip or not is to look at the joint just below your fingernails, the DIP (distal interphalangeal) joint. Half Crimp In bouldering, a "Half Crimp" is a hand grip position used on small holds. Crimping is the way you grab onto a small but positive edge, bending your fingers in a specific way. You can execute this grip technique by placing your fingertips on a handhold and then curling your fingers at the second joint.
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